Thursday, April 17, 2008

Backtrack Day: April 16

April 16

Helpful hint for other computer non-experts: Tom just told me that if you double click on the pictures they enlarge to full screen. I didn't know that!

Today was re-run day. We decided to backtrack for a couple of things we wanted to see and missed or wanted to see again before heading on up the coast toward Washington.

We got up early (We have adjusted to West Coast time and are even sleeping in most mornings. The transition back to East Coast time will be painful.) then started back toward Otter Rock. We arrived at Devil’s Punch Bowl almost at high tide. It was still coming in, but was close to the high point. The tide charts online were a bit off, in our favor.
We were duly impressed with the punch bowl awash with even more water surging in.



The tunnel–like openings that admit the sea are not in a direct line with the waves, so the water pours in slightly after the waves break over the rock where the formation is located.

It makes it a challenge to photograph, so we took lots of pictures, hoping to catch the water surging in.



The surf was high, so we also took pictures of the surrounding views.



We next made a stop at Rocky Creek overlook. There was a path along the crest of the hill overlooking the ocean. It was interesting to walk since the rain had flooded part of it, but we managed to get to the edge and saw some amazing waves break against the cliffs and hills off to the sides of the lookout.
We saw some flowers that we had previously seen along the road but had not been able to photograph. They seem to flouish near streams and ponds and in other wet places. The flowers are bright yellow with a tightly closed bud that gradually opens; the leaves are lily-like. They are very beautiful. We were disappointed to find out they are Western Skunk Cabbage. Apparently if the leaves or flowers are crushed they reek—we will be careful not to step on any.

We met two professional Girl Scouts who were taking a short vacation to see the coast after attending a conference in Portland. We traded storied of sites along the way, since we were headed in opposite directions, after the next bit that we all were doing. They were delightful, and offered me a job in Joplin, Missouri—a bit long to commute from Fuquay I am afraid.

We saw them again as we drove the Otter Crest Loop, which we had not done before since it is one way going South and we were headed North at that time and it was late in the day. We were glad we backtracked as the ocean views were awesome.


We found that Yaquina’s claim to be Cape Foulweather is a little bit of a stretch. There are two capes with a shallow bay-like area between them where Captain Cook landed and named the area Cape Foulweather. Yaquina starts on one cape, the other is actually called Cape Foulweather.
At any rate, the views from the cape were wonderful, and it was fun to see the places we had already visited from up high. There was a helpful kiosk that identified landmarks.

At the cape, even with the clouds and mist we could see for miles. From the point of the cape we could see the lighthouse at Yaquina. It is very tiny in my picture, but Tom has a close-up that I hope he will post later.
Yachina is the cape at the top of the picture.

We stopped briefly at Depoe Bay whose claim to fame is that it is the smallest port in

Oregon. There is a tiny entrance, only one ship at a time can enter or exit, and a small bay. It is a neat little coast town with lots of little shops and cafes, many with pirate and other sea themes. The town is literally oceanside.

Boat entering Depot Bay's small port.


Now it was backtrack time. We went back to the Willamette Valley to hit a couple of vineyards. Tom had recommendations from his blending session he wanted to look into.

Domaine Serene is in a beautiful setting. The winery perches on a hill high above the valley, with a terrific view from the front. You enter the grounds from the side of the winery, and the first view is of the red-tiled roof golden buildings high above acres of vineyards. It is beautiful, and a lovely drive through the vines.

The tasting room had been much more tastefully decorated than most wineries do. I felt we should have been dressed in Sunday best (though no one was). To go along with the décor, they were a bit pretentious, but from the prices of the wine, probably justifiably so.

Torii Mor is not easy to reach. We traveled the type of back roads that only Tom can find on a vacation. The last were washboard-gravel roads. Just as I began to think we were lost, we did see another winery, which gave me hope, and then a sign for Torii Mor.

Tom entering Toree Mor tasting room.

It was worth the trip. The wine was excellent; I even tried a few, which is unusual. But I only sampled whites. Our “host” was genial and informative. They offer many more wines to sample than most wineries. (So we decided this would be our last stop of the day.) Another couple came in who were visiting from Oklahoma. We all chatted about our backgrounds, the wine, and NY State vineyards. It was very enjoyable.

Besides all the vineyards, it was interesting to see the many farms in the area. In Willamette Valley there are very many groves of filbert (hazelnut) trees. Oregon used to be the third biggest hazelnut producer in the world, not just the US, but so many groves are being ripped up and replanted in grape vines, that that distinction has been lost. We saw one orchard in the process of being converted, with rows of hazelnut trees pushed over and being piled up to be burned. But there are still miles of groves left.

There are also many nurseries, specializing in everything from grape vines to shrubs and trees, to flower bulbs. The bulb farms are beautiful. We saw several with field after field of daffodils and tulips. The iris, for which the area is known, are not yet in bloom. There is an iris festival in mid July, so I would assume that is when they will be flowering.

There are many herds of both cows and sheep, and of course this is also horse country. But the really curious thing is how many llamas there are scattered among the herds of other animals. It is not unusual at all to see a llama or two among a sheep herd or grazing with cows. We also saw a few in California. At first I was excited every time I saw one, but we have become blasé about llama sightings now.

The drive to and from the coast was also fun. We took different routes where possible, so saw some different scenery, when I wasn’t napping (Tom makes really good time on early morning jaunts as I tend to fall asleep.). Much of the trip back to the coast was over a mountain then through a valley, the last part along the Wilson River. The creeks and the river along the way were beautiful—crystal clear with frequent rapids. We saw fishermen in several places, whether it was raining or not. There were many waterfalls right along the roadside. At times the valley was narrow enough to see them cascading over the rocks on both sides of the highway. I had trouble trying to take it all in at once.

Oregon is such a beautiful state, both on the coast and inland.

We stayed in Tillamook again. We stopped at a different cheese factory, Blue Heron, (only a store and gift shop at the facility, no tours) to get some of their Brie, their signature cheese. It was alright, not great. We won’t go out of our way to find it at home.

Tomorrow we are on to new Oregon coast areas before heading on to Washington.

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